Day #8 – Haus of Gloi Custom Perfumes

I’ve been itching to make my own custom perfume for a while, and decided to try out Haus of Gloi’s custom perfumes! They’re $20 a piece and you can pick up to four notes. They recommend having at least one base note (as this is what helps with longevity), with the top and mid notes. After going back and forth with Jen, I settled on two customs:

  1. White Vanilla Sugar, Vanilla Bean, Dark Patchouli, Cake
  2. Almond Extract, Vanilla Bean, Beeswax and Honey, Cake

I ordered it on March 28th and it shipped on April 13th, which is approximately 12 business days. They come in their own little boxes, with your notes written on the front of it.

Custom #1: White Vanilla Sugar, Vanilla Bean, Dark Patchouli, Cake

What I Wanted: Super sugary, vanilla-d patchouli with the patchouli as a costar, rather than the star to help give the blend balance. I wanted primarily the sugar and vanilla to be the main star of it.

In the Bottle: I smell deep, dark patchouli, but something lightly sweet right behind it.

Wet on the Skin: Still very much patchouli, but I get a deep sweetness, almost a chewy syrupy feel to it.

Dry on the Skin: The sugar warms up a bit more and I get a sugar crusted patchouli. Overall, I’m really happy with this blend. It wasn’t exactly what I was looking for, but it’s gorgeous and aging so well! The first day I really got PATCHOULI PATCHOULI, with a dab of sugar. But now the vanilla and cake are really growing stronger and I’m getting a gorgeous patchouli blend.

Custom #2: Almond Extract, Vanilla Bean, Beeswax and Honey, Cake

What I wanted: I was looking for vanilla almond honey cakes.

In the Bottle: Sharp, sour beeswax and maybe almond.

Wet on the Skin: The beeswax is still very strong and in the forefront, I can slightly pick out the sharp almond with a little bit of cake very faintly.

Dry on the Skin: The beeswax mellows out a little itty bit, but man it really overtakes the whole blend. I can barely pick out the almond extract, but I get some of the cake in the back. When I first got this, it was an instant headache, and I’m 99% sure it’s the beeswax note. After about two weeks, it’s a little better, but still has a long way to go. I’m going to let this one age and hope the beeswax chills out a bit.

The process was quick, painless and overall very pleasant. I definitely plan on going back to make a few more customs and maybe trying out less notes instead of trying to jam every one of my favorites in there. Also learned the hard way that beeswax is really not quite the same as honey and honey is what I was looking for in the second blend. Will check in with both of these guys in a few months 🙂 image1 (2).JPG

Day #7 – Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller

Phew, it’s been a while since I did one of these! Today is Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller, from their Carnaval Diabolique line. This is from the original run of it from 2006 (they recently revamped and brought it back in 2015).

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A colorless woman bursts from an elaborate gold and ruby tent and faints dead at your feet. Soft laughter emits from the dark entrance to the tent, and the scent of musk, black fruits and incense touches your senses. Looking up, you see that the sign hovering above the unconscious woman is adorned with images of the Major Arcana’s Tower and reads:

“Mme. Moriarty, Misfortune Teller.
No fate too grim, no future too bleak.”

A tiny woman with floor-length black dreadlocks walks out of the tent, stepping over the prone body. She is clothed in deep red wrappings, and is bedecked in golden ornaments bearing alchemical symbols and charms representing eternity, chance, and wisdom. She pauses, looks you over slowly, and then flicks a tarot card at your feet.

Red musk, vanilla bean, pomegranate, patchouli leaf and wild plum.

In the Bottle: Smells a bit like cheap sharp cologne with a sharp hit of patchouli in the background.

Wet on the Skin: Rooty, leafy patchouli with some musky juicy red fruit. Slight “coolness” to it, similar to menthol. I’m not getting any sweetness from the vanilla at all. This is a dark orange, amber oil.

Dry on the Skin: The red musk comes to the forefront along with soft vanilla, and that initial coolness/mintyness fades away. I get some of the “dirty” patchouli vibe, but not in the hemp family as much as leafy and slightly herbal. If I were to describe this in colors it would be extremely dark maroon with swirls of deep red, purple and black. An hour later, this is a gorgeous warm vanilla-y musk with patchouli. I definitely get the red musk note that Smut has, but super balanced with the vanilla and patchouli. I don’t get much of the wild plum, but I’m guessing that it’s lending it’s sweetness to the vanilla bean.  Super pretty, and so fitting of this misfortune teller. Whenever buying older bottles, I find that the throw and longevity is significantly decreased (although still smellinimage1 (1).JPGg quite good), this is still quite strong for a 2006 blend.

I am so glad I decided to get this, I also have a Mme. Moriarty Misfortune Teller from the 2015 run of it coming in my next order and will do a side by side comparison!

Day #6 – Snake Charmer Hair Gloss

Black FullSizeRender (1)Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s sister company, Black Phoenix Trading Post creates these fabulous hair, body, and atmosphere products. From hair glosses, to body oils to linen/atmosphere sprays. They’re the perfect counter  products to their perfume oils and I am quicklyyyy amassing a huge collection of hair glosses. For hair gloss reviews, I will stick to reviewing the overall scent, as I find that hair glosses don’t morph as much, along with longevity of it. Although it states it has a six month shelf-life, it lasts for much longer than that! The hair glosses come in 4 oz bottles and have a smaller general catalog with most of the scents being limited editions. snakecharmer

Today is Snake Charmer hair gloss, this is my absolute number one scent right now. I am sooooooo in love with it!

Sensual, sibilant, sexual and hypnotic: Arabian musk and exotic spices slinking through Egyptian amber, enticing vanilla, and a serpentine blend of black plum, labdanum, ambrette, benzoin and black coconut.

I get the sweet dark, vanilla coconut and plum with some of the ambrette nuttiness. This scent is warm spices (without cinnamon, as I really can’t do cinnamon), with a deep rich fruit that is fruity without becoming plastic/artificial on me. I get a deep dark musk (but not red musk) with vanilla’d spices and slightly plummy incense.  I use two spritzes in my dry hair and it’ll last me all day. The scent also “wakes” up again when the water hits my hair in the shower! This scent is so evocative of a snake charmer–sensual, exotic and absolutely gorgeous.

Day #5 – Fatherhood: A Moment in Time

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab is the first Indie perfumeries I tried and is still my favorite. Their scents are so well mixed and unique, there really isn’t quite anything like it. In addition to the quality of their goods, their fanbase is out of this world. Between the online forum and the various groups on social media, it’s really amazing!

The owners/founders have a daughter named Lilith. On both the BPAL and BPTP side, they release scents based on her or experiences with her. Today’s is from the BPTP side, run by Puddin’, her dad. This collection is within the Fatherhood collection: A Moment in TimeEach Lilith comes with either the story or description, they almost all tug at my heart. This one in particular is so touching.

FatherhoodQuiet moments with Lilith mean so much to me.

Nothing compares to the joy of watching her as she experiences things for the first time, and I’m grateful to be part of it.

A tranquil scent, illuminated by joy and warm with the serenity of love: bourbon vanilla and soft sandalwood with tiare, white fig, sweet benzoin, guiac wood, French lavender, and a touch of warm patchouli.

 

In the bottle: All I smell is lavender, oh noes, and not the sweet, sugared lavender that I’m accustomed to, but a strong herbal lavender, this much be the “French” part of the French lavender note.

Wet on the Skin: I still get the lavender but now I’m getting a bit of patchouli as well. At this stage it’s still a super strongly lavender with patchouli blend and not quite what I was expecting. I really hope this lavender mellows out a bit because it’s still way too herbal for me.  get the heavy handed lavender but on the skin it blossoms into a gorgeous figgy patchouli lavender blend. I think I need a back-up.

Dry on the Skin: After it dries out, the fig completely comes to forefront. I get a really sweet fig that’s mellowing out the lavender, with patchouli in the background grounding the whole scent. This is a gorgeously sweet lavender blend. The sillage is pretty strong but it creates more of a cloud of scent around me. I applied at about 7 am and it last for a good 5 hours without reapplication. I’m super happy I sprung for this one, it has a few notes that I’m unfamiliar with (fig, tiare, benzoin) but it really turned out to be a win.

Day #4 – Edith Cushing of Crimson Peak

Today I am wearing one of my most monetarily rare perfumes, Edith Cushing from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s Crimson Peak collection. This collection is based off of the movie Crimson Peak starring Tom Hiddleston, Jessica Chastain and Mia Wasikowska. Crimson Peak is directed by Guillermo del Toro, and is an American Gothic romance film.

After marrying the charming and seductive Sir Thomas Sharpe (Tom Hiddleston), young Edith (Mia Wasikowska) finds herself swept away to his remote gothic mansion in the English hills. Also living there is Lady Lucille (Jessica Chastain), Thomas’ alluring sister and protector of her family’s dark secrets. Able to communicate with the dead, Edith tries to decipher the mystery behind the ghostly visions that haunt her new home. As she comes closer to the truth, Edith may learn that true monsters are made of flesh and blood.

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After luckily finding a bottle of Edith Cushing at a great deal, I knew I had to watch the movie before trying her out! The movie’s cinematography is breath taking, from their costumes to the play of colors–the vivid red, the deep black, it’s all stunning. The dresses are GORGEOUS, absolute pieces of art.IMG_4157 The plot is fairly linear,  following true to the category of a Gothic Romance.

Onto the perfume, I have Edith Cushing, portrayed by the lovely, Mia Wasikowska. 

Love looks not with the eyes, but with the mind: pearlescent vanilla musk with white sandalwood, grey amber, white patchouli, ambrette seed, and oudh.
In the bottle: All I smell is strong brown sugar, almost caramel. It’s not bad, but just wasn’t what I was expecting. It’s super sweet smelling and I’m hoping it smells different on the skin.
Color: Light yellow
Wet on the Skin: The foody vanilla completely goes away once on my skin. I get the oudh at first sniff, and the sweet vanilla with nutty ambrette is pretty prominent as well. I wonder if the ambrette or musk is what’s making it feel stronger and more perfume-like.
Dry on the Skin: Ah, the amber is finally coming out to play, it’s still fairly tame compared to the vanilla and oudh for me. The vanilla musk is gorgeous and hugs close to the skin. The sandalwood and vanilla musk are partners in prominence, but I don’t get much of the white patchouli, but that may be my nose not picking it up. In order of strength I get golden ambrette, musk, vanilla then sandalwood.
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This is a gorgeous vanilla musk, that is balanced with the ambrette and oudh, keeping it from feeling too  gourmand. Throw is decently strong but still wears fairly close to the skin. It is slightly powdery, but not in an old-lady way but in a sophisticated Victorian lady way. It’s true to the character in her innocence and warmth that she embodies. I’m so happy I was able to get a full bottle of this! Definitely going to cherish this one.